Kakadu

Some say Kakadu and others say KakaDon’t. We say KakaDO but be prepared to become a mountain goat as the walks are rocky and steep! We drove the two and a half hours to Jabiru Lodge from Darwin, dumped the van and headed to the infamous Cahill’s Crossing to watch people crossing the thirty metre creek crossing at high tide (1.32pm). On average, two people per week risk crossing the creek when the tide is high and need to be rescued. Although it is not deep the threat is the strong current and crocodiles literally swimming beside the crossing waiting for the barramundi to jump into their open mouths. We waited until high tide had passed to cross ourselves and even then it was scary. We finally headed back to camp to set up our van and have a swim in the fantastic pool and relax for our Yellow Water Cruise in the morning.

Cahills Crossing

One thing about Kakadu is its sheer size. To get to any fantastic location, you need to travel over half an hour as a minimum. To get our bearings we visited the Bowali Visitors Centre. This is a must if you come here as they have educational displays and a fabulous forty minute series on the Rangers in the park and what they do. We have a healthy appreciation of the types of jobs they do each day of the year to ensure people are safe and the environment flourishes and thrives. Their office is immense in size and is a dangerous one with the varying roles and responsibilities they have. From taking noxious weeds and crocodiles out of the water at the end of the wet season to burning off, whacker packing the roads when they have pot holes, rescuing people, to taking free Ranger walk and talks around different areas of the park. They are just a few of the many duties and they do it well. This makes the $25 park fee seem a token donation in what is a thorough and calculated yearly process to make the park accessible, safe and exciting.

Yellow Water

The kids loving the pool at Jabiru

We were able to see one of the Rangers in action on our cruise at Cooinda. We cruised along the wetlands and listened to the Ranger educate us on all things wonderful in the healthy wetlands. We saw crocodiles, brumbies, turtles, many types of birds including brolgas, and the Jabiru (which put on a show for us killing a fish and spearing it with its very long beak as it strutted amongst crocodiles without fear) and water Lillys. The water was clear and the surrounds were lush and green. It was well worth the money and was a great way to relax and learn about this magical and ever changing environment. From there we headed back to the lodge as Mel was not feeling well so it was off to the pool for Glen and the kids. 

Jim Jim Falls (just a trickle)

The following day Mel was feeling better so we took Bruce for another 4WD tour. In hindsight our other four wheel driving experiences were a walk in the park compared to Jim Jim Falls and Twin Falls. It literally took us two hours to drive there. It was rough and rugged and we had to cross a .7 metre creek crossing. Mel who has the job of taking photos and the footage of such epic events thought she had hit record only to find out later that she had in fact NOT taken any footage on the way over the creek, nor on the way back. There was however footage of her putting the camera into her bag! You can only imagine Glenno’s excitement over that! The bushwalk to get to Jim Jim, although only 1 kilometre away was in fact over massive boulders and medium rocks. On every bushwalk we have been on Cameron and Taylah have stood at a random but magnificent rock and had one tantrum each. We sternly tell them to suck it up and keep walking and they power on but now we wait patiently on our bushwalks wondering which lucky rock will next be the aptly named ‘Tantrum Rock’! At times we are near enough to a cliff face that echos their tantrum, giving every backpacker a taste of parenthood and the grey nomads a moment to reminisce of travelling many years ago with their young ones. Anyway, we digress, by the time we arrived at the awesome plunge pool at Jim Jim Falls none of us could have cared if there were crocs lurking in the water as the temperature was 37 degrees and we were hot and exhausted. The water was freezing and the kids didn’t swim but it was beautiful swimming with sheer cliffs looming overhead and a small waterfall cascading in the background. Twin Falls was also spectacular. A gorgeous 4 minute boat ride over crystal clear water and a quick walk over more boulders and through some small water falls took us to another massive waterfall on a beach. People are not allowed to swim here and believe us it was tempting, but something about a $2000 fine and three years jail put us off. We had left at 8am and did not arrive back at the campsite until 6.30pm. We were dirty, our legs and feet were aching, we were cranky and very hungry so decided to eat dinner at the bistro by the pool. The Barra was superb, and the kids demolished their sausage rolls. Although the day was physically exhausting it was worth going to these two sites.

Glen checking the Jim Jim Creek crossing

Twin Falls

Rock Art at Nouralangie

A timeline in archeological finds at Nouralangie

The following day we explored Nouralangie and Ubirr. Both sites are well known for their stunning Aboriginal Art Sites. Nouralangie in particular had detailed paintings of food sources, dangerous spirits, Tribal laws and dreamtime stories. We caught the end of a very informative talk given by a Ranger (Rhys) on the timeline of tools and discoveries from archeological digs from the area and evidence in the caves about the indigenous people and their culture, dating back 20 000 years. The way he put it, well before Captain Cook, Jesus’ crucifixion, the pyramids, Stonehenge and some French painting that we didn’t know about! WOW! We could have listened to Rhys all day. The 2.5km walk itself was easy stretching along boardwalks which entered into and around massive caves where the magnificent artwork was displayed. A small walk up to the lookout opened up a scene from all angles. On one side were cliffs that had been obscured to us on our walk by tall trees but now opened up to reveal their height and landscape beyond. On the horizon the same types of cliffs stretched from North to South like the Great Dividing Range. Parts of the escarpment are sacred to the tribes here but look spectacular from afar. One area looks like the Three Sisters in the Blue Mountains, which we later read were 3 evil spirits who will curse anybody who alters the boulders or landscape in the area.

Sunset at Ubirr

Ubirr was an easier walk again, partly because it was almost dark and a little cloudy. Here we saw paintings of the Rainbow Serpent, menus and learnt about the types of ochres used to paint. We trekked up to the rocky lookout and saw a sea of green stretched out in front of us. It was such a contrast to the landscapes we have been looking at lately.  We watched another remarkable sunset overlooking the Nadab floodplain and tried to take in the moment in between one hundred photos that will not do it any justice. It was a memorable moment. Also memorable was getting overtaken by a carload of locals in a mercedes at about 160km/h in the dark on the way home!

Rock Art at Ubirr

Our last day in Kakadu we spent at Maguk and Gunlom. Only 12 kilometres apart from one another as the crow flys but 1 ½ hours by road! Maguk is a beautiful 1 km walk over smooth grey boulders that follow a rocky stream. It soon opens out to a large and very warm rock pool sitting under a small waterfall. We enjoyed a quick swim here before heading off to Gunlom. The road to Gunlom is very corrugated and Glen manoeuvred Bruce like a pro over the terrain. The main attraction at Gunlom is the three rock pools that sit atop a massive waterfall. The 250 metre climb is dodgy at times but once you are at the top you can relax in one of its pools. While we were excited to be there Glenno commented on how the waterfall had a yellowish tinge. Camo at the top of his voice said “that’s because I did a wee in it!” Oh the joys of travelling with kids. The water was indeed a yellowy/greenish colour but the scenery was amazing. Out of the two areas we visited today Maguk takes the prize for having crystal clear water and a pleasant walk. The road to Gunlom is terrible and we can only wonder how many people don’t go there due to this reason, or maybe it was the ferals who think it’s ok to take (and drop) beer bottles and a Makita ghetto blaster to the top to ruin everyone else’s experience. 

Maguk 

Gunlom

Gunlom

We were sad to be leaving Kakadu but so glad we had the time and car to see most of what it has to offer.

TIP: To enter the National Park there is a very reasonable fee of $25 per person over 16yo. You need a 4WD to get to Jim Jim, Twin Falls, Maguk and Gunlom. Every location you visit is spaced wide and far so be prepared to drive a long way throughout the day and trek over and up big boulders. We averaged visiting two things per day and we were exhausted every day. Take note of all of the free Ranger guided tours or talks. They even visit your accommodation sites and show slideshows and answer questions.